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  • #31
    I have just discovered the bogie is symmetrical and so is reversible.
    Pull out the coupling, unscrew the bogie pivot screw, rotate the bogie 180 degrees and reassemble.

    You can now have a front bogie without a coupling and without the NEM pocket looking quite so obvious.
    A much nicer finish for the front end detailing, and I have not noticed bogie pivoting being a problem when reversed.

    HTH
    Bob

    Comment


    • #32
      Originally posted by Bob G View Post
      I have just discovered the bogie is symmetrical and so is reversible.
      Pull out the coupling, unscrew the bogie pivot screw, rotate the bogie 180 degrees and reassemble.

      You can now have a front bogie without a coupling and without the NEM pocket looking quite so obvious.
      A much nicer finish for the front end detailing, and I have not noticed bogie pivoting being a problem when reversed.

      HTH
      Bob
      Hook the rear wheel of the bogie off the track and run it, and see what happens then?

      Comment


      • Mark Ellis
        Mark Ellis commented
        Editing a comment
        Because wheels being off the track do happen for a number of reasons, Jeremiah. And if turning the bogie around stops the valve gear from jamming against a derailed wheel then that's a positive thing for people to know about

      • JeremiahBunyan
        JeremiahBunyan commented
        Editing a comment
        I'm sure bogies jump off the rails for a number of reasons...It happens not only to models but also the real locos. However I would never recommend anyone to hook it off the rail on purpose just to check. Unless you'd like to try it?

      • Mark Ellis
        Mark Ellis commented
        Editing a comment
        Jeremiah, mine already derailed. Go take a look at post number 22 on this thread

    • #33
      I have taken a Schools back to my layout at home to gauge how it handles on a layout that might be considered to be laid to an average standard. There are some demanding curves including an inclined 90 deg. bend along with wide range of radii points and the odd cross over to test it with. I have ran the loco at far higher speeds than I would normally do, (I like to watch things saunter past hauling "heavy" mineral loads) and so far it has performed like there was super glue on the wheels when driven forwards or in reverse across a variety of potential derailing hazards. I have to honestly say I have not managed to get it to derail through "fair play" yet on sections of my track that other locos have to take rather gingerly.

      The concept of turning the bogie around is an interesting one and I will have a look into this.

      Thank you to all for your feed back on our new model

      Neil
      Regards
      Neil

      Dapol Staff Member

      Comment


      • #34
        I got to run both of my Schools locos today - I received Repton today and I noticed it is different from Shrewsbury - it has a speedometer cable fitted to the rear axle. Oh and its green as well, in case anyone thinks I didn't notice that too
        Well done Dapol for noting differences in locos and modelling them.
        Does anyone know when this was fitted on the real loco? I hope it was when in BR service and not just a preservation addition, as in preserved condition, Repton has an extended capacity tender, which the model does not.

        On the topic of derailing bogies, I too managed to get both of mine to jam up accidentally on a test track today. I have reversed both of my bogies so the NEM pocket is not visible from the front. They did not derail in use - but it was totally my fault, when placing the loco on the track, in not locating the bogie on the track correctly in the first place.

        While no damage was done in either case, I can vouch that the mechanism does lock quite solid, so some care is needed in locating the loco on the track. Mark is therefore not alone in this experience. If derailment is less common once running, I suspect that initial placement on the track will be a strong contender for the cause of most problems encountered with the schools valve gear. Mine were running at slow speed too, seizing just after start-up, and having jammed the first one, I was convinced I wasn't going to do it to the second one, but I did

        So if an aftermarket self-centering spring does come available, I will be in the queue!

        Nevertheless the Schools is a lovely model.

        HTH
        Bob


        Comment


        • #35
          Originally posted by Bob G View Post
          ...

          So if an aftermarket self-centering spring does come available, I will be in the queue!

          ... Bob
          part of the problem is that due to using scale sized bogie wheels, and the thickness/depth of the wheel, as soon as the wheel gets outside of the rail then it's directly in line with the moving valve gear. So I don't think that a self-centering spring system would work. I think the issue is the size/depth of the joint itself, which offers a full impact area to the wheel instead of glancing off or missing the wheel

          Comment


          • #36
            I don't have one, yet, but a couple of observations, the last photo of the three that you posted Mark just highlights to me how fantastic the scale wheeled bogie is compared the out of scale version on the left, so changing the bogie to be out of scale to avoid this is hopefully not a solution.

            I was wondering though if the reversed bogie may offer an answer... if the NEM socket was used to house a fixing point (adapted coupling?) and then a spring take from that back to a suitable point on the underframe/chassis that should achieve two things. By pulling the bogie back it would potentially exert a downwards force, dependent on the pivot mount point of course, it would also serve to maintain the rear of the bogie centrally to the chassis and hopefully keep the rear wheels from ever jumping the rail.

            Maybe someone with the model and the time and a suitable sized spring would like to give it a go... I currently don't have an accessible layout so even if I had one I couldn't prove the function of it...

            Comment


            • #37
              Originally posted by SteveU View Post
              I don't have one, yet, but a couple of observations, the last photo of the three that you posted Mark just highlights to me how fantastic the scale wheeled bogie is compared the out of scale version on the left, so changing the bogie to be out of scale to avoid this is hopefully not a solution.
              I believe the loco on the left is an old Farish model (4-4-0?) with the ridiculously small front wheels that a lot of folks replace with NBrass front bogies. I'm sure absolutely no one wants a return to those tiny things! My Repton arrived yesterday and is a thing of beauty. Following the scare mentioned I ran it for a few laps quite slowly before speeding up. Something I always do with steam locos, though, is to give the motion a very light oiling before running them.

              Comment


              • Mark Ellis
                Mark Ellis commented
                Editing a comment
                Never heard of replacing the bogie wheels. Not suggesting that they use small diameter wheels. But the problem is that the depth of the bogie wheels is bigger than the real thing, and the valve gear joint is also thicker. Which results in the joint catching the wheel spokes, and the joint jamming up against the rail face of the wheel when the joint moves past the wheel

            • #38
              My 'Malvern' arrived this morning and I have to congratulate Dapol on a fantastic looking model. The finish is excellent, with crisp lining and the Malachite green appears to be a good match for the real thing. A quick test run showed smooth running and good control, and this should improve further after a period of running in. The only minus point for me is it being fitted with traction tyres.

              I would go so far as to say this could well be Dapol's best Steam outline model to date.

              Well done guys!

              Tom.
              Last edited by TomE; 8 July 2016, 17:28.

              Comment


            • #39
              Looks right at home on Ropley!

              Comment


              • #40
                Originally posted by TomE View Post
                Looks right at home on Ropley!
                Very Nice TomE any more pics of your layout of Ropley is it exhibition or home layout Looks grand :-D

                Comment


              • #41
                Hello

                Have all versions arrived and have they all been sent yet please?

                Many thanks

                Comment


                • Joel Dapol
                  Joel Dapol commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Not yet, there are two of ours and the special commission for Osborn Models to come. They should be here any day now.

              • #42
                I note with interest that the rear bogie wheel on the real Schools has a wheel arch. Because of the over sized bogie wheels and over sized valve gear joint, perhaps a wheel arch would resolve the issue that is causing damage?

                Comment


                • Andy Dapol
                  Andy Dapol commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Mark, I'm not sure the wheelarch would help. it would have to pivot with the wheel and would effective widen the overall width making a jam more likely.
                  As previously noted, we have had reports of this issue from a small number of customers and are actively looking at this. It's worth noting that in model terms, the wheels are a little finer in 'thickness' than N gauge standards already. In the meantime we can advise to take care when running the model and to contact us should issues occur.

                • Mark Ellis
                  Mark Ellis commented
                  Editing a comment
                  The real issue is that when the joint moves from beside the wheel to after the wheel, the joint pops in towards the centre of the loco again, and then squarely hits the rail face of the wheel - which blocks the gear from moving at all = bent everything.
                  If the wheel arch is longer than the furthest point that the valve gear joint moves towards the back of the loco, then the joint can't get behind the wheel and be blocked by the wheel from going forward

              • #43
                My Repton derailed going forwards as soon as I started running-in. That didn't do any lasting damage but I had to reverse the loco. to free up the bogie from the valve gear. I then ran the loco. in backwards for half an hour which seemed to overcome the problem. Then successfully ran in forwards but at the end of that it derailed again jamming the bogie so tightly into the valve gear that it bent the coupling rod, the return crank rod and the expansion link. I've tried to straighten these, with limited success. I then noticed that on the r.h. (fireman) side of the loco., the whole of the valve gear assembly is lower than on the left (there is a visible gap below the running plate and the top of the valve gear, which isn't there on the left side. Is it a coincidence that the problems with the bogie fouling the valve gear have all been on the right hand side? I have a Shrewsbury on order and will look very closely before running-in.

                Comment


                • Andy Dapol
                  Andy Dapol commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Doug, Please contact us regarding this issue.

              • #44
                I've had an experience pretty similar to doug22150, which is why I've registered here. The loco was delivered in time for the normal running-in process last weekend. The bogie derailed itself part-way through this process, jamming its rear wheel under the right-hand-side motion. It wasn't jammed tight, so I was able to free it and continue running. However, I'm not sure if it was the case before (because It didn't occur to me to check), but afterwards the running was jerky, as if something was getting stuck.

                It wasn't reliably the case, and certainly not every revolution of the driving wheels, but every three or four turns or so the loco hesitates at slow speed, as if it's trying to force through a blockage or stiffness of some kind. At faster speeds you can hear the motor encountering these blockages and stuttering its way through them. At slow speeds the loco either hops along the track or simply stops because there's not enough power to get past the blockage. On closer inspection, many of the rods were not fully straight, and one or two seem badly contorted. Much of this is nowhere near where the bogie fouled the motion so I have to assume it existed before. It could be these bent rods that have already taken a strip of brass paint off the pipework in front of the rear driving wheel on one side.

                Overall, I'm far from impressed, given the cost of a brand new loco. There seems little hope of being able to improve things myself so it'll have to go back.

                Comment


                • #45
                  With all these reports of faults with the bogies jamming it seems to me that distribution should be halted until the problem is resolved. The model could be deemed as unfit for purpose.
                  I have 2 on order with my local model shop and it is unfair that I should have to return them via him when the fault is already known about. Come on Dapol sort it out!

                  Comment


                  • Pete33
                    Pete33 commented
                    Editing a comment
                    And yet, Jeremiah, there are at least three people on this very forum reporting the problem.

                  • JeremiahBunyan
                    JeremiahBunyan commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Ahh...thanks. Only remembered one and didn't bother to read back

                  • Pete33
                    Pete33 commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Fair enough. I'm just miffed that my expensive new loco is a worse performer than my forty year-old Graham Farish locos with brass gears...
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