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Running-in dcc fitted oliver cromwell

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  • Running-in dcc fitted oliver cromwell

    I've just purchased an Oliver Cromwell but can't see anything in the enclosed documents about running-in. Should this be done using DC power or is it o.k. to go straight to DCC?

  • #2
    I have always assumed if not fitted then run in on DC, then fit DCC and do another run in to check all okay. When they are DCC fitted I run in on DCC as having to remove the chip and refit the blank would seem to negate the point of buying fitted...

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    • #3
      Thanks. That seems entirely logical. It was just that I recalled seeing something previously, suggesting that Dapol DCC fitted locos should be run-in on DC first.

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      • #4
        Just 'chipping in' (Sorry, but hard to resist!)
        Actually, it doesn't really matter technically. Its entirely at your preference. The origin of the 'Run in under DCC' was a carry over from the non-DCC ready days. In fact, it was printed in our instruction sheets that the model should be run in under DC until fairly recently, but that statement is now removed.
        The original reason was that with "non-DCC" ready models, to fit a decoder required modifications to the wiring and hence invalidated the warranty. All well and good, but more than disappointing if, after fitting a decoder a problem was located with the loco. Nowadays, with DCC ready, and DCC fitted models and plug in decoders no warranty invalidating modifications are needed and we have updated the documentation. Therefore all Dapol DCC ready locomotives (regardless of any statements in the documentation) can be run in under DC or DCC and there will be no ill effect in doing so. If you have any warranty claim (perish the thought!) then all that is needed is to remember to remove your decoder (and preferably re-fit the blanking plate) before sending it in for repair or exchange.

        DCC [factory] fitted models can also be run in under DC or DCC, (The majority of DCC decoders support running with DC or DCC).

        I hope this helps.
        Regards
        Andy

        Dapol Staff Member

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        • #5
          Thanks very much for clarifying this Andy. I will run the loco. in under DCC power. May I ask a supplementary question about lubrication? I notice, carefully removing the baseplate from under the loco., that the gear train appears to grease lubricated and yet the instructions refer only to lubricating the worm with oil after about 50 hours running.

          Regards

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          • Andy Dapol
            Andy Dapol commented
            Editing a comment
            The models are lubricated in the factory which should (under normal conditions) last apx. 50 hours of running time. It all depends on storage etc. as well i.e. a hot attic of climate will require lubricating earlier. Dusty environments may require cleaning before lubricating etc. etc.
            Although written for OO models, this book by Nigel Burkin contains relevant information on maintaining and repairing models.
            http://www.dccsupplies.com/item-p-10...uge-models.htm

          • doug22150
            doug22150 commented
            Editing a comment
            Thanks again Andy

        • #6
          I have now run the loco. in for well over half an hour in each direction. Slow running is superb but running at speed is noisy with a grating sound running on straight track which eases on curves. There is also a distinct wobble with the loco. rocking, lifting at the rear and dipping at the front on the firemans (r.h.) side with every revolution of the driving wheels. Could this be caused by an improperly seated traction tyre?

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          • Hailstone
            Hailstone commented
            Editing a comment
            try replacing the traction tyres, they are often the cause of this

            Regards,

            Alex

          • Andy Dapol
            Andy Dapol commented
            Editing a comment
            Hailstone is correct, they can sometimes not sit correctly in the groove of the wheel. I lift them using a blunt needle (slipped under the tyre) and then run it round the wheel, so that it reseats the tyre around the rim.

        • #7
          Thanks again Andy. I'll give that a try.

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