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The Class 59 is supposed to be fitted with a smoke unit. But IIRC the plan to have the Class 59's fitted with smoke units was changed and I think a smoke unit is to be sold separately. Have a scroll through the various Class 59 threads on here.
They are coming to the end of the production process now, so should be with us in the next couple of weeks. The delay (for which we are sorry for) is due to the lining on the Cartazzi and tender frames and I have to say, after looking at a production sample, this is is very fine and hopefully will make the model worth the extra wait.
Thanks, Joel, look forward to seeing the model when it arrives. Understand totally that you would wish the model to be at it's finest and a couple of weeks or three is a small price to pay for that precision of detail. Thanks once again, and a happy New Year to all at Dapol
I have received my Mallard which is absolutely brilliant and for those who haven't bought a Black Label " What are you waiting for?"
i was very impressed by the smoke there's loads of it, my layout is in the loft so it's a good job I have a roof window to open. I have several others locos with smoke but the Black Labels put them to shame. The smoke oil lasts far longer as well.
Fire box flicker is great too, more effective than the normal orange LED where used to, cab tarporlin brilliant, sounds are all brilliant and four cab crew sounds are an excellent idea.
I would like to know what happened to the original ad that stated they would come with crew and fire irons? Not that this detracts at all.
Very much looking forward to the Golden Eagle coming in next couple of weeks, well done Dapol hope you make other models in Black Babel, how about putting a survey out to see what members would like?
keep it coming.
Thanks for the kind words, yes we are pleased with the way the model has turned out and in my view reflects the massive amount of work the design team has invested in the project. The crew was omitted as initial prototypes we received were, to be frank not good enough for the model and to start again on these would have delayed the production. This is something we will work on for future releases and hope to have a crew included as a standard feature. I think a survey for future prototypes if this release proves successful would be a great idea.
I’ve been watching people reviewing these A4s on Youtube and they look absolutely incredible. Are you guys planning on releasing them in BR green? If you do decide to make them in BR green then I’ll be ordering a few of these for sure…
A bit too early to say presently whether we will produce the later BR versions as we are still evaluating the response to this first release. It goes without saying, we would love to produce these and are keeping all our digits crossed.
i bought Bittern and pardon the pun but am absolutely chuffed to bits.
its a superb model that beats anything out there for realism, quality and running ability.
However, is there a way to adjust the wheel revolution per amount of chuffs by changing a CV? If so what CV and what the available values of it? Will the steam chuff also synchronise to the new setting if the standard value is changed?
Bought bittern, superb model. Can't recommend it enough. For once ive actually ran a steam loco for longer than a diesel. Worth every penny indeed. Would be nice if in the future you can get smoke/steam to come out of other places where you'd normally find it, eg towards front of loco lower wheels (sorry I'm not a steam expert so not sure what you call it).
I do however have an issue with mine where by some of the motion is catching on other parts of motion, see attached photo. It seems one part is very loose so some times it catches and other times it doesn't. As can be seen its eating away at the main motion. See circled area. Any advice appreciated.
@srhaggis Tweaking (i.e. bending something a little) is an option, but not really one I'm happy to suggest is performed on a new model, hence my suggestion about an exchange. I'd rather it 'be right' out of the box.
@AndyDapol - Having looked closer I don't think there is anything that can be bent, it needs a washer or something to close a gap in one of the small upper motions as it's flops about at free will, the motion seems to be riveted, so can't be fixed from my end. I will drop you an email; though i'm going over your way first weekend of Feb so will drop in so save some postage for both parties.
i tried adjusting CV220 earlier this morning but no matter what value I entered, it didn't change the chuff/revolution. I've read the CV and the default value appears to be125. It says this in the instruction manual too.
ive counted 7/8 revolutions per chuff.
i have a Hornby Elite system and I've done all of the above on the operating track. Would it need to be placed directly onto the programming track to work? I've changed a couple of other CV's on the operating track though....
creilly81 The model should not behave this way, CV220 has a noticeable effect on the chuff rate and the fact that you are not seeing this suggests a problem with the decoder. I suggest setting CV8 to a value of 8 which will reset the decoder to factory settings, (including its address back to 3) and re-test.
If this has not resolved the issue, then the decoder is misbehaving. In this case please contact us and we will arrange replacement.
Have you changed CV246 to 0 so that you turn on the smoke using F7
Try enter a value of 64 into CV246 and then amend CV220 to see if it has any affect in the chuff rate, F7 should still work.
If not reset the values
Hope this helps
Setting CV246 to 64 does this allow for you to then switch the F7 function on and off correctly?It appears that with CV246 set to 0 I can alter the chuffs to my hearts content, but the smoke then emits when I turn the sound on instead of if I press F7 to turn it on.
ive found amending CV220 then setting CV240 back to 194 so that F7 operates correctly just knocks out any previous value I had put in CV220 and the chuffs default back to standard.
Setting CV246 to 64 allows me to alter CV220 AND operate function F7 correctly?
I'm possibly going to order Mallard from the Dapol website on Monday, hopefully there will be a survey as to what locos could be made next, hoping for possibly a GWR Manor in 00 gauge to these standards by Dapol next to be honest.
I recently received two Black Label A4 locos and I love them. The quality and detail of the models is amazing - they are easily the best 00 gauge locomotives I have ever seen and the smoke effect is absolutely magical. Dapol really have created a new benchmark for ready to run locos! I sincerely hope you will consider further additions to this range in the future.
I do have a problem though that I was hoping someone on the Dapol team or on the forum can help with. I have a long but narrow layout that necessitates the use of some tight (3rd) radius curves. I have found that the Bittern loco I have will derail on anything less than 4th radius. Is this what you would expect? The manual says that the fixed cartazzi truck can be used if you have 3rd radius radius curves or greater. This implies that 3rd radius or tighter should be ok if you use the pivoting cartazzi truck (which is what I have fitted). Interestingly the Silver Fox I have is just ok on 3rd radius (although it struggles a bit). It is the 3rd driving wheel set which derails on the Bittern. On closer inspection the wheel brakes appear to prevent the driving wheels from having as much lateral float as they might otherwise have had. I am considering try to modify them a bit to allow more lateral movement but just wondered if this was intended or if anyone else has had the same problem.
We have tested the model on 2nd radius curves (which is our minimum recommendation), but it is quite dependent on local conditions. Your post suggests its the driving wheel float, rather than the cartazzi which is the problem? You should not need to modify anything for this to work. Does it derail at the same point each time and is there anything unusual about the track at that point?
Other than this, please contact us to arrange an exchange of the model.
Thanks Andy for the very quick response. Yes I believe it is the driving wheel float that is the problem. I am just using standard set track and my Bittern model will derail on any fourth radius curve when turning left. It cannot go around 3rd radius in either direction. The Silver Fox can manage 3rd radius ok but not 2nd (although I am ok with that as I don't use 2nd radius). I can't see anything obviously wrong or obstructing the float (ignore previous comment about the brakes). I measured the lateral distance between the driving wheel flanges and I noticed these are slightly further apart than on some of my other models (15mm vs 14mm) but perhaps this is an attempt to achieve greater realism. Anyway I would appreciate it if you could fix/exchange my Bittern model. Can you please advise how to get in touch to do this? Many thanks again for your help.